All lawns get a few brown patches during the growing season and chances are you've tried to identify the cause. The truth is that brown spots can show up for any number of reasons, but more often than not, it is due to a fungus problem. Here are some quick tips to help you should your lawn develop a disease issue this year.
It rains a lot in the spring right? And because of that, fungal problems abound. Throw in a few 70 degree days and some humidity and you are looking at a perfect breeding habitat for lawn disease.
Some of the more prevalent lawn diseases we see in much of the country are red thread, rust, dollar spot and summer patch. The good news here is that most of these fungal problems don't cause a lot of turf injury as long as you are willing to follow proper cultural practices (watering and mowing mostly) and allow the pros to assist you should the problem get out of hand.
Though we may wish for it, good weather is not always in your lawn's favor. But you can make weekly adjustments to your own lawn care regimen to counter-act bad weather conditions. Mow your lawn tall and irrigate consistently and deeply. Never water at night and catch clippings when disease is present.
There are also a number of granular fungicides available at your local home and garden center. These will work very well if applied before any sign or fungus or disease occurs. I always recommend homeowners apply fungicides in May and again in late June if warranted. Of course, you should always follow the directions on the product you are applying. If you can't get to it, hire a lawn pro to do it for you.
Another important consideration is soil composition; specifically in regards to available nitrogen. Nitrogen in the soil will allow grass to grow quickly, thus recovering faster from disease pressure. Your lawn pro can help adjust fertilizer rates for you or apply the correct amounts when diseases are present in the turf.
The final step in ensuring minimum disease pressure in your lawn is to manage the thatch layer. Thatch is the layer of dead grass, leaves and other organic material that all lawns have just above the soil line, right at the grass plants crown.
Proper amounts of thatch are good. Thatch keeps the turf's roots shaded during very sunny days and maintains moisture levels, but too much will harbor disease. If your thatch layer is more than one-half-inch thick, it is time to aerate your lawn.
Aerating the lawn is a process whereby holes are punched into the thatch layer and down into the soil using a large machine. You can hire a lawn care company to aerate for you, or rent the machine yourself for around $40 per day. The best times to aerate are spring and fall, but you can do it anytime or both. One last tip: never power rake your turf. Power raking will remove 100% of the thatch layer and cause you bigger problems in the future.
The main thing to keep in mind is that most lawn disease problems are not really a big deal and you should not panic! A healthy lawn that is watered, mowed and fertilized properly will recover from just about anything thrown at it. Don't let your lawn stress you out! Instead, take care of it now, and it will stay healthy and green for years to come. - 15266
It rains a lot in the spring right? And because of that, fungal problems abound. Throw in a few 70 degree days and some humidity and you are looking at a perfect breeding habitat for lawn disease.
Some of the more prevalent lawn diseases we see in much of the country are red thread, rust, dollar spot and summer patch. The good news here is that most of these fungal problems don't cause a lot of turf injury as long as you are willing to follow proper cultural practices (watering and mowing mostly) and allow the pros to assist you should the problem get out of hand.
Though we may wish for it, good weather is not always in your lawn's favor. But you can make weekly adjustments to your own lawn care regimen to counter-act bad weather conditions. Mow your lawn tall and irrigate consistently and deeply. Never water at night and catch clippings when disease is present.
There are also a number of granular fungicides available at your local home and garden center. These will work very well if applied before any sign or fungus or disease occurs. I always recommend homeowners apply fungicides in May and again in late June if warranted. Of course, you should always follow the directions on the product you are applying. If you can't get to it, hire a lawn pro to do it for you.
Another important consideration is soil composition; specifically in regards to available nitrogen. Nitrogen in the soil will allow grass to grow quickly, thus recovering faster from disease pressure. Your lawn pro can help adjust fertilizer rates for you or apply the correct amounts when diseases are present in the turf.
The final step in ensuring minimum disease pressure in your lawn is to manage the thatch layer. Thatch is the layer of dead grass, leaves and other organic material that all lawns have just above the soil line, right at the grass plants crown.
Proper amounts of thatch are good. Thatch keeps the turf's roots shaded during very sunny days and maintains moisture levels, but too much will harbor disease. If your thatch layer is more than one-half-inch thick, it is time to aerate your lawn.
Aerating the lawn is a process whereby holes are punched into the thatch layer and down into the soil using a large machine. You can hire a lawn care company to aerate for you, or rent the machine yourself for around $40 per day. The best times to aerate are spring and fall, but you can do it anytime or both. One last tip: never power rake your turf. Power raking will remove 100% of the thatch layer and cause you bigger problems in the future.
The main thing to keep in mind is that most lawn disease problems are not really a big deal and you should not panic! A healthy lawn that is watered, mowed and fertilized properly will recover from just about anything thrown at it. Don't let your lawn stress you out! Instead, take care of it now, and it will stay healthy and green for years to come. - 15266
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