Normally the loganberry is cooked but there are those, like my wife, who like acid fruits, who eat the berries raw with relish, when they are really ripe. The berries are produced in great profusion, being of a deep maroon colour.
Loganberries grow quite happily on their own roots. Feeding the canes. Loganberries have to form new canes each year and it is on these that the fruit is borne. They can be fed in a similar manner to blackberries. The only slight difference, perhaps, being that I have discovered they need more potash. Wood ashes should be used at 6 oz. to the sq. yard, or flue dust at 4 oz. to the sq. yard, each year early in March. Where sulphate of potash is available, made from grapeskins, this could be used at 2 oz. to the sq. yard.
Budding is usually done on any of these stocks in July. Feeding the trees. Medlars do quite well when grown in grass, providing this is cut regularly. For the first three or four years a little circle of soil around the tree may be kept hoed or a mulch of sedge peat may be applied on the ground early in June to the depth of an inch for 3 feet all round the tree.
Prune as soon after picking as possible, cutting away the canes that have just fruited and then tying in the new canes in their place. The straw mulching method as advised for blackberries is ideal. I have never known loganberries to be grassed down but in areas of high rainfall this might be a possibility provided one of the finer-graded grasses was used and providing the grass is cut regularly and fed properly.
Because the disease spores of cane spot may drop from the old wood on to the new, it is a good idea to train the new canes up through the middle of the fan. Then when the old canes are cut away the young canes may be tied in their place. It is a mistake to lay the new canes down close to the ground because (a) they may be damaged, and (b) the disease spores may drop on them from the older canes.
The grubs of the raspberry beetle burrow into the plug of the fruits as well as feeding on the drupelets. These must be kept at bay by using the non-poisonous liquid derris about the middle of June and again the end of June. The grubs of the shoot moth feed on the young tips of new canes and they often spin the little leaves together in bunches. Watch the young growths carefully and hand pick the grubs from the bunch tips. You may have to unroll them to do this. Various kinds of aphides (greenflies) may attack loganberries but they can easily be killed by spraying with liquid derris. Give the canes plenty of room for development so that the leaves can dry quickly after rain. If these cultural methods are adopted, there should be little trouble with the disease. If, however, it should occur, spray with a colloidal copper solution, added to the beetle sprays. - 15266
Loganberries grow quite happily on their own roots. Feeding the canes. Loganberries have to form new canes each year and it is on these that the fruit is borne. They can be fed in a similar manner to blackberries. The only slight difference, perhaps, being that I have discovered they need more potash. Wood ashes should be used at 6 oz. to the sq. yard, or flue dust at 4 oz. to the sq. yard, each year early in March. Where sulphate of potash is available, made from grapeskins, this could be used at 2 oz. to the sq. yard.
Budding is usually done on any of these stocks in July. Feeding the trees. Medlars do quite well when grown in grass, providing this is cut regularly. For the first three or four years a little circle of soil around the tree may be kept hoed or a mulch of sedge peat may be applied on the ground early in June to the depth of an inch for 3 feet all round the tree.
Prune as soon after picking as possible, cutting away the canes that have just fruited and then tying in the new canes in their place. The straw mulching method as advised for blackberries is ideal. I have never known loganberries to be grassed down but in areas of high rainfall this might be a possibility provided one of the finer-graded grasses was used and providing the grass is cut regularly and fed properly.
Because the disease spores of cane spot may drop from the old wood on to the new, it is a good idea to train the new canes up through the middle of the fan. Then when the old canes are cut away the young canes may be tied in their place. It is a mistake to lay the new canes down close to the ground because (a) they may be damaged, and (b) the disease spores may drop on them from the older canes.
The grubs of the raspberry beetle burrow into the plug of the fruits as well as feeding on the drupelets. These must be kept at bay by using the non-poisonous liquid derris about the middle of June and again the end of June. The grubs of the shoot moth feed on the young tips of new canes and they often spin the little leaves together in bunches. Watch the young growths carefully and hand pick the grubs from the bunch tips. You may have to unroll them to do this. Various kinds of aphides (greenflies) may attack loganberries but they can easily be killed by spraying with liquid derris. Give the canes plenty of room for development so that the leaves can dry quickly after rain. If these cultural methods are adopted, there should be little trouble with the disease. If, however, it should occur, spray with a colloidal copper solution, added to the beetle sprays. - 15266
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By growing both summer and autumn fruit trees in your garden it is possible to have a supply of fresh fruits for a fairly long season.
