Annuals are a variety of plant which grows and blooms only once in its lifetime, meaning they must be replaced annually. While this certainly has its drawbacks, annuals also have many advantages over other plants like perennials. For one their cost is much less, being grown primarily from seeds which can produce thousands of plants with just a single packets of seeds. You're also not restricted by having the exact same plants in your garden every year if you'd rather have a change of scenery each year. Their bloom period is quite long, and they're also great for cutting.
One of their disadvantages is that they bloom much later than established perennials, so a bed filled with nothing but annuals will be quite devoid of life for the early part of the growing season. Having a nice mix of annuals and perennials in each bed is a good way to alleviate this problem. There are a good number of hardy annuals as well which can be planted in the fall so as to get an early start on spring, and these are another option when it comes to balancing out your beds. These hardy annuals include poppies, larkspur and cornflowers. If you decide against planting them in the fall, you can at least get a hard start on them early in the spring once the ground is suitable for planting.
For your less hardy annuals, getting them started in seed pots early in March is a good plan of action. Otherwise you may be forced to wait a good month or more until all risk of frost has disappeared. First make sure to carefully pulverize your seedbed with a rake before planting and eliminate all lumps.
Once your seeds have been placed and lightly covered with soil you can gently tamp down the soil above them. Leave a stake in the ground, with some sort of identifying mark or sign to remind you which plant is in that spot. Small flower seed plants should be placed no more than an inch beneath the surface, while larger plants such as sunflowers should be planted to a greater depth, and from two to four feet apart.
Annuals are most often planted in rows, which can speed up the process when planting multiple plants, and gives them a nice alignment when they emerge from the earth. To do this, dig a shallow trench, again not more than one inch deep for flower seeds. This can either be done with a trowel or your hands. You can now fill it with seeds. Go ahead and leave more than you might think is necessary, you can always trim out any excess plants later. Thinning will likely be required at some point anyway to ensure each plant has sufficient room, so unless you're really cautious on the seeding, this will be a required task at some point.
Before transplanting any plants from a pot to the ground, you should expose them to outside air for stretches of time beforehand to help get them acclimated in the landscape. The soil in the pot should also be used in its new location, which gardeners and landscapers rarely do in gardening and landscape preparation. If you can hold off on the transplanting until a cool and damp day, these are ideal weather conditions for this process. If the ground is dry be sure to water it both before and after transplantation. If you must transplant on a sunny day, set up some sort of barrier to provide the plant with shade. Once the plants are established these barriers can be removed. - 15266
One of their disadvantages is that they bloom much later than established perennials, so a bed filled with nothing but annuals will be quite devoid of life for the early part of the growing season. Having a nice mix of annuals and perennials in each bed is a good way to alleviate this problem. There are a good number of hardy annuals as well which can be planted in the fall so as to get an early start on spring, and these are another option when it comes to balancing out your beds. These hardy annuals include poppies, larkspur and cornflowers. If you decide against planting them in the fall, you can at least get a hard start on them early in the spring once the ground is suitable for planting.
For your less hardy annuals, getting them started in seed pots early in March is a good plan of action. Otherwise you may be forced to wait a good month or more until all risk of frost has disappeared. First make sure to carefully pulverize your seedbed with a rake before planting and eliminate all lumps.
Once your seeds have been placed and lightly covered with soil you can gently tamp down the soil above them. Leave a stake in the ground, with some sort of identifying mark or sign to remind you which plant is in that spot. Small flower seed plants should be placed no more than an inch beneath the surface, while larger plants such as sunflowers should be planted to a greater depth, and from two to four feet apart.
Annuals are most often planted in rows, which can speed up the process when planting multiple plants, and gives them a nice alignment when they emerge from the earth. To do this, dig a shallow trench, again not more than one inch deep for flower seeds. This can either be done with a trowel or your hands. You can now fill it with seeds. Go ahead and leave more than you might think is necessary, you can always trim out any excess plants later. Thinning will likely be required at some point anyway to ensure each plant has sufficient room, so unless you're really cautious on the seeding, this will be a required task at some point.
Before transplanting any plants from a pot to the ground, you should expose them to outside air for stretches of time beforehand to help get them acclimated in the landscape. The soil in the pot should also be used in its new location, which gardeners and landscapers rarely do in gardening and landscape preparation. If you can hold off on the transplanting until a cool and damp day, these are ideal weather conditions for this process. If the ground is dry be sure to water it both before and after transplantation. If you must transplant on a sunny day, set up some sort of barrier to provide the plant with shade. Once the plants are established these barriers can be removed. - 15266
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